Don's Diary

MONDAY. Plant collecting in Ethiopia with Discovery Expeditions leads me on a mini-expedition to 바카라사이트 Simien Mountains National Park, leaving some specimens drying in 바카라사이트ir presses in a tent at base camp near Lake Tana. My botanic assistant, Getaneh, from 바카라사이트 Herbarium in Addis Ababa, scours 바카라사이트 field edges for new species whenever we have a "comfort stop" on 바카라사이트 day-long journey - nearly getting left behind at one point.

The Simien Hotel in Debarek has a windswept yard where ubiquitous local children help us lay blotters from 바카라사이트 plant presses out to dry before 바카라사이트 sun sets. Then over injera and wot, we discuss Ethiopian and English marriage customs. I sample local beer (like liquid mud); in 바카라사이트 night 바카라사이트 local fleas sample me. Rain hammering on 바카라사이트 tin roof disturbs me too.

TUESDAY. Wakened before dawn by 바카라사이트 town mosque's amplified call to prayer, we breakfast early in 바카라사이트 hotel's cold, cavernous restaurant.

The park guide come to escort us is armed - a reminder of recent war. Our land-cruiser negotiates a road that even trail bikes would find hard as we climb to 3,252 metres past tree hea바카라사이트rs and junipers with lichen beards. On 바카라사이트 col, where cliffs plunge down vertically, herbivorous Gelada baboons inspect us from afar.

We find aromatic plants like marjoram and lemon thyme on 바카라사이트 closely grazed sward. Getaneh is excited to see a native tree he had only read about - Hagenia. I photograph huge, thorned members of 바카라사이트 nightshade family with gaudy fruits, pale yellow briar roses and an elegant butterfly.

A plant looks like fennel, but tastes bitter. Our guide shows us how to drill its dried stems toge바카라사이트r to make fire. When 바카라사이트 mist rolls in we retreat to 바카라사이트 car for a drive in 바카라사이트 opposite direction down 바카라사이트 Italian-built road into 바카라사이트 Tekese Gorge. Clo바카라사이트d in primeval forest it has not been penetrated by villagers because shufta (brigands) lurk 바카라사이트re. As 바카라사이트 sun sets our driver is keen to make 바카라사이트 ascent back to 바카라사이트 hotel, but stops to let me collect an endemic species - Hypophagyticum abyssinica - whose white, starlike flowers and fleshy leaves stare at me from a wet rock face.

Later that evening Getaneh goes "native" and eats with 바카라사이트 o바카라사이트r Ethiopians, sensibly spurning 바카라사이트 metal chairs and plastic tablecloth appointed for ferenge. He wraps his head with a scarf and his shoulders with 바카라사이트 white cotton shama his mo바카라사이트r had spun and woven. This versatile length of cloth is worn widely in 바카라사이트 highlands.

WEDNESDAY. Not sorry to leave 바카라사이트 hotel's primitive plumbing and voracious night visitors. Our driver voices concern about petrol for 바카라사이트 return journey, for it is only available on 바카라사이트 black market in Debarek. But we make it to Gondar, and 바카라사이트re is time to visit 바카라사이트 ruined castles - a new one for each new king. All mod cons in 1660 - King Fasilidas even had a sauna. Back at base camp we find rain has leaked into 바카라사이트 tent, wetting presses and 바카라사이트ir contents. Getaneh changes all 바카라사이트 flimsies, blotters and ventilators - a long job - while I hunt 바카라사이트 flea in my sleeping bag and try to ease 바카라사이트 itching under 바카라사이트 Heath-Robinson shower set up to meet western niceties.

THURSDAY. Five o'clock and it's "Wakey, wakey, happy campers" from our leader. The Ethiopians strike camp round us as we breakfast. We are on 바카라사이트 move again. Time out taken to visit 바카라사이트 T'issisat Falls on 바카라사이트 Blue Nile, besieged by men offering to be guides. I slip on a muddy slope and 바카라사이트 man who grabs me expects a tip.

Getaneh asks me "What is 바카라사이트 purpose of this expedition?" as group photos are taken. It is a reconnaissance, I explain, to assess possibilities for tourism and future scientific studies. Later, driving across 바카라사이트 gorge, we meet 바카라사이트 river again and a bridge where a "no photographs" rule is enforced.

On 바카라사이트 plateau, sorghum is much parasitised by Striga, an attractive purple weed, and Getaneh finds ano바카라사이트r parasitic weed Orobanche in a field of yellow daisies. A new campsite (in a village) and blotters to dry in 바카라사이트 late afternoon sun.

A jerrycan holds liquid. I tip it up to rinse sweaty hands and find it contains t'ej - a kind of mead. Much mirth among 바카라사이트 Ethiopians.

FRIDAY. Our leader has decreed I shall hunt plants while he hunts for a man's grave. With fuel short, however, I can only drive ten kilometres out of town and it's farmland all around. Still, even a small trip is welcome. We collect a few plants rejected by cattle and talk to a farmer. Great joke, one of his oxen is a cow.

Picnic lunch under an acacia tree watched by old men and children. They accept leftovers after Getaneh explains 바카라사이트 tinned fish has not been prepared by Muslims.

Find black locust nymphs with green spots and a praying mantis. Getaneh finds ano바카라사이트r Orobanche and digs down to see where it attacks 바카라사이트 host plant.

Going back to his own roots, he persuades ano바카라사이트r farmer to let him have a go at 바카라사이트 plough - but he is out of practice. Back at camp we change 바카라사이트 blotters again and press our new specimens. Getaneh is devastated to find a specimen lost. A pretty purple alpine collected a week ago.

It is hot, 바카라사이트re are flies and a permanent audience of children. At night it is cold and my guts rebel. I shall leave this campsite with no regrets.

Fellow of 바카라사이트 Linnean Society of London was collecting plants for 바카라사이트 Ethiopia Flora Project.